April 2013: The first leg of my journey to Somaliland and Mogadishu with my regular travel buddy, my sister Elizabeth. We landed in Addis and drove east to Harar and Jijiga, aiming for Wajaale and the Somaliland border.
This was my second trip to Ethiopia, but my first to the Muslim east. Harar's walled old town dates back to the 10th century and contains an estimated 80-90 mosques in just 60 hectares. It's said to be the fourth holiest city of Islam – but as well as mosques, it's also famous for its large population of habituated hyenas, which roam the cobbled streets at night like giant urban foxes. They seem to have come to an understanding with the local population, as they never attack people, even children. And every night, the famous Hyena Man of Harar offers tourists the chance to feed these strange creatures by hand – or mouth.
Addis Ababa on an overcast afternoon, seen from the Bahir Dar Road.
Mechanic, Addis.
La Mode, on the road to Durba.
Friends, between Chancho and Durba.
Priest, on the Durba road.
Ashabi with captive Gelada baboon, Kete.
Dust on the road east from Addis to Harar. This picture doesn't really do justice to quite how dusty the roads in Ethiopia are. Visibility goes down to about a metre when you're in the wake of a truck like this.
Accidents like this are an all-too common sight on Ethiopian roads. Remarkably, no-one was killed here.
Kung Fu master, Dire Dawa.
Elder, Dire Dawa.
Taxi, Harar.
Old Town, Harar.
Spice market, Harar.
Traditional architecture, Harar Old Town.
Schoolgirls, Harar.
Market, Harar - with the Old Town walls in the background.
Mekina Girgir - the Savile Row of Harar.
Tuk tuk, dusk, Harar.
The famous Hyena man of Harar. These normally very dangerous animals roam the streets of Harar freely at night, without bothering or attacking people. The only creatures they come into conflict with are the local dogs. Tourists can pay a few dollars for the privilege of hand - and mouth - feeding the habituated, but nonetheless entirely wild, local clan.
Feeding time...
Battle-scarred hyena – most likely from a fight with a local dog.
Tuk Tuk, Harar.
Bus station, Jijiga, on our way to the Somaliland border.
Waiting for the bus to Wajaale.
Testi, our guide in Harar, says goodbye.
With my sister, safely across the border and into Somaliland.